Is red threadlocker really permanent? Can you ever remove it?
“Permanent” is a strong word, but it’s not the whole story. Red (high strength) threadlocker is designed for fasteners you don’t want to come loose. Think suspension bolts or safety-critical assemblies. But if you ever need to take it apart, it’s possible: you’ll need to apply significant heat (usually around 500°F/260°C) and use extra force. So, it’s not truly permanent, but it’s definitely not coming apart with just hand tools.
When should I NOT use threadlocker, and what are the best alternatives?
Plastic threads or fasteners: Threadlocker is for metal-to-metal only. Using it on plastic can cause cracking or chemical damage.
Fasteners you remove often: Skip it for covers, panels, or anything you need to open up regularly. Instead, go for mechanical solutions like lock washers, Nyloc nuts, split washers, safety wire, or cotter pins.
Precision engine bolts: Some critical fasteners (like head bolts or connecting rods) require specific torque and may call for lubricants or dry installation—always check the manual.
Loose or damaged threads: Threadlocker can’t fix sloppy hardware. Repair or replace the fastener first.
When the manufacturer says not to: If the manual says don’t use threadlocker, trust it.
Other chemical options: Nail polish (for very light-duty), pre-applied thread treatments, or specialty polymer patches (like Nylok).
Superglue: Sometimes used in a pinch for low-torque, non-critical fasteners, but not recommended for anything safety-related.
What’s the real difference between red and blue threadlocker?
Blue (medium strength):
Made for fasteners you might want to remove later—brakes, engine covers, bikes, furniture, etc. It keeps things from vibrating loose but can be taken apart with normal hand tools.
Red (high strength):
For “set and forget” jobs; suspension, engine mounts, or anything you don’t want to back out. Removing red threadlocker requires heat and muscle.
